Peptides are these miraculous things that are hard to comprehend. Pretty much as all the rest of this new DNA technology taking skincare by storm. Peptides are short chains of amino acids that serve as building blocks for proteins in the body, such as collagen, elastin, and keratin. These proteins are crucial for maintaining the skin’s structure, firmness, and elasticity. In the context of skincare, peptides play a significant role in promoting healthy, youthful-looking skin.
They go a long way back. Bruce Merrifield developed solid-phase peptide synthesis (SPPS) in 1963. Back then he revolutionised peptide synthesis by making it more accessible and efficient. This technique earned him the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1984. SPPS allowed for the rapid synthesis of peptides, enabling research into their biological functions and therapeutic potentials, bringing us to today.
Dr Omar Babar was one of the fist doctors to introduce peptide therapy for skin related treatments in the UK. They became available under his supervision in Healand Clinic, based in Leicester, East Midlands. The clinic remains one of the most popular to provide the treatment in the UK.
Types of Peptides in Skincare
Signal Peptides
Signal peptides function by sending messages to skin cells to stimulate collagen production. Essentially, they “tell” your skin to produce more collagen, which is crucial for maintaining the skin’s firmness and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Examples of signal peptides include palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, also known as Matrixyl, and copper peptides.
Carrier Peptides
Carrier peptides function by delivering trace elements such as copper and magnesium to the skin. These elements are essential for wound healing and enzymatic processes that aid in skin repair and rejuvenation. An example of a carrier peptide is copper tripeptide-1.
Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides
Enzyme inhibitor peptides function by inhibiting the enzymes that break down collagen and other proteins in the skin. By blocking these enzymes, enzyme inhibitor peptides help maintain the skin’s structural integrity. Examples include soy peptides and silk fibroin peptides.
Neurotransmitter Inhibitor Peptides
Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides function similarly to Botox by blocking the release of neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions. This helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by repetitive facial movements. An example of a neurotransmitter inhibitor peptide is acetyl hexapeptide-8, also known as Argireline.
Benefits of Peptides in Skincare
Collagen Production: Peptides stimulate the production of collagen, which is vital for maintaining the skin’s elasticity and firmness. Increased collagen levels help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, resulting in smoother, more youthful-looking skin.
Improved Skin Barrier: The skin barrier is the outermost layer of the skin, responsible for retaining moisture and protecting against environmental aggressors. Peptides help to strengthen this barrier, enhancing its ability to keep the skin hydrated and protected from pollutants and irritants.
Reduced Inflammation: Some peptides have anti-inflammatory properties that help to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and calm conditions like acne and rosacea.
Enhanced Hydration: By promoting the production of natural moisturizing factors, peptides help to maintain the skin’s hydration levels. This results in plumper, more hydrated skin that looks healthier and more radiant.
Improved Skin Texture and Tone: Regular use of peptide-infused skincare products can lead to an overall improvement in skin texture and tone. Skin appears smoother, more even, and has a natural glow.
How to Incorporate Peptides into Your Skincare Routine
Integrating peptides into your skincare regimen can provide a range of benefits, from boosting collagen production to enhancing skin hydration and reducing inflammation. Here’s how you can effectively incorporate peptide-based products into your daily and weekly skincare routine:
Peptide Serums: Deep Penetration and Concentrated Benefits Peptide serums are highly concentrated formulations designed to deliver powerful doses of active ingredients directly to the skin. Due to their lightweight texture, they penetrate deeply, reaching the dermal layers where they can stimulate collagen production and cellular repair. Apply peptide serums after cleansing and toning but before moisturizing. This allows the peptides to work efficiently without being blocked by heavier products. Regular use of peptide serums can lead to noticeable improvements in skin texture, firmness, and overall radiance.
Peptide-Infused Moisturizers: Hydration Meets Anti-Aging Many moisturizers now include peptides to offer dual benefits: deep hydration and anti-aging effects. These formulations help to lock in moisture, strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Use peptide-infused moisturizers as the final step in your skincare routine to seal in the benefits of serums and other treatments. By integrating these moisturizers into your daily regimen, you can ensure your skin remains hydrated, plump, and youthful-looking.
Peptide-Rich Eye Creams: Targeting Puffiness, Dark Circles, and Fine Lines The delicate skin around the eyes is often one of the first areas to show signs of aging, such as puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines. Peptide-rich eye creams are specially formulated to address these concerns. They work by enhancing collagen production, reducing inflammation, and improving microcirculation in the under-eye area. Gently apply a small amount of peptide eye cream around the eyes both morning and night to keep this sensitive area looking fresh and revitalized.
Peptide Masks: Intensive Hydration and Firmness Boost Peptide masks provide an intensive treatment that can significantly boost skin hydration and firmness. These masks are typically used weekly and can be either sheet masks or creamy formulations. They deliver a concentrated dose of peptides along with other nourishing ingredients to rejuvenate the skin. To use, apply the mask to clean skin, leave it on for the recommended time, and then gently remove or rinse off. Regular use of peptide masks can enhance your skin’s elasticity, reduce fine lines, and leave your complexion looking more vibrant and youthful.
Peptides vs Exosomes
Peptides and exosomes are both crucial in advanced skincare and regenerative medicine, but they function differently and serve distinct roles. Peptides are short chains of amino acids that build proteins like collagen and elastin, vital for skin structure and function. In skincare, peptides are primarily used for their ability to signal skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin, which enhances skin firmness, reduces wrinkles, and strengthens the skin’s barrier. Various types of peptides, such as signal peptides, carrier peptides, enzyme inhibitor peptides, and neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, each serve specific functions to improve skin health and appearance.
Exosomes, on the other hand, are small extracellular vesicles naturally released from cells, including stem cells. They play a critical role in cell communication and the transfer of bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, and RNA between cells. In skincare and regenerative medicine, exosomes are valued for their ability to facilitate intercellular communication and promote tissue repair and regeneration. They deliver a complex array of growth factors and signalling molecules that stimulate skin repair, reduce inflammation, and enhance cell regeneration.
Unlike peptides, which target specific cellular activities, exosomes can influence a broad range of cellular processes, making them powerful tools in advanced therapeutic applications. The primary difference lies in their mechanisms of action: peptides provide targeted signals for specific responses, while exosomes offer comprehensive communication systems for holistic cell behaviour and tissue regeneration.
Popular Medical-Grade Peptide Products
1. SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Interrupter
A powerful anti-aging cream specifically formulated to target visible signs of aging caused by advanced glycation end-products (A.G.E.), which contribute to the loss of elasticity, firmness, and the appearance of wrinkles. Enriched with proxylane, blueberry extract, and phytosphingosine, this cream helps improve skin’s texture, restores elasticity, and combats creping and thinning skin. Designed for mature skin, the A.G.E. Interrupter works to visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and sagging, providing a more youthful, plumped complexion over time.
- Key Peptides: Proxylane, blueberry extract.
2. Neocutis Lumiere Firm Riche Extra Moisturizing Illuminating & Tightening Eye Cream
An advanced eye treatment designed to provide deep hydration while addressing signs of aging around the delicate eye area. Formulated with proprietary peptides, hyaluronic acid, and caffeine, this cream works to visibly reduce puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and wrinkles. It also helps to firm and tighten the skin, offering a smoother and more illuminated appearance. Ideal for mature or dry skin, the rich texture delivers intense moisture, making it perfect for those looking to rejuvenate and revitalise their eye area.
- Key Peptides: Proprietary peptides, growth factors.
3. Alastin Skincare Restorative Skin Complex
This is a potent anti-aging formula designed to enhance skin’s firmness, elasticity, and overall texture. Enriched with Alastin’s proprietary TriHex Technology®, this serum helps to clear out damaged proteins and rejuvenate the skin, encouraging the production of new, healthy collagen and elastin. It also targets fine lines, wrinkles, and thinning skin, promoting a more youthful, radiant complexion. The lightweight formula is suitable for all skin types, making it a versatile addition to any anti-aging skincare routine. It’s fab.
- Key Peptides: TriHex Technology® (a blend of peptides and other key ingredients).
4. Jan Marini Transformation Face Cream
A luxurious anti-aging moisturiser designed to enhance skin hydration and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Formulated with advanced peptides, hyaluronic acid, and growth factors, this cream supports skin regeneration and improves firmness and elasticity. Its lightweight, non-greasy texture absorbs quickly, leaving the skin smooth, plump, and radiant. Ideal for those looking to restore youthful vibrancy to their complexion, this face cream delivers both immediate hydration and long-term skin rejuvenation.
- Key Peptides: TGF Beta-1, Thymosin Beta-4.
5. iS Clinical Youth Serum
An advanced anti-aging treatment designed to improve skin firmness, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a youthful glow. Formulated with a potent blend of growth factors, antioxidants, and bioidentical peptides, the serum works to support collagen production, smooth skin texture, and provide both immediate and long-term results. Its lightweight, fast-absorbing formula also tightens the skin instantly while delivering deep hydration, making it a popular choice for those seeking a comprehensive anti-aging solution.
- Key Peptides: Copper tripeptide growth factor, Acetyl Octapeptide-3.
6. Revision Skincare Nectifirm Advanced Neck Cream
A cutting-edge neck cream formulated to target advanced signs of aging specifically in the neck and décolletage areas. Enriched with a blend of peptides, antioxidants, and smart antioxidants, this product helps to firm, smooth, and tighten sagging skin while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also supports the skin’s microbiome and encourages collagen production for a more youthful, lifted appearance. Ideal for mature skin, Nectifirm Advanced works to improve overall texture and tone, restoring a firmer, more resilient neck and chest.
- Key Peptides: Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.
7. PCA Skin ExLinea Peptide Smoothing Serum
A targeted anti-aging treatment designed to visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Enriched with a potent blend of peptides, including Argireline, this serum works by relaxing facial muscle contractions, similar to a non-invasive Botox-like effect, smoothing expression lines and promoting firmer skin. Additionally, hyaluronic acid and antioxidants hydrate and protect the skin, delivering immediate and long-term benefits. Ideal for all skin types, this lightweight serum offers a powerful solution for a more youthful and rejuvenated complexion.
- Key Peptides: Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline).
8. Epionce Intense Defense Serum
A potent multi-vitamin serum designed to provide comprehensive anti-aging benefits by delivering a blend of vitamins A, B, C, D, and E to the skin. This advanced formula supports the skin’s natural repair process while improving the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven tone. Lightweight and fast-absorbing, the serum helps to fortify the skin’s barrier and promote a more youthful, radiant complexion. It is suitable for all skin types and is particularly beneficial for those looking to address early signs of aging and environmental damage.
- Key Peptides: A proprietary blend of peptides.
9. Osmosis Skincare StemFactor Growth Factor Serum
An advanced anti-aging treatment that harnesses over 600 growth factors and proteins to repair and rejuvenate the skin. Formulated with a potent mix of stem cell-derived ingredients, this serum promotes cellular regeneration, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage while improving overall skin texture and elasticity. Lightweight and suitable for all skin types, it enhances the skin’s ability to repair itself, providing a firmer, more youthful complexion with consistent use.
- Key Peptides: A blend of stem cell-derived peptides and growth factors.
10. Elizabeth Arden PREVAGE Anti-Aging Daily Serum
This is a powerful antioxidant-rich formula designed to combat the visible signs of aging. Infused with Idebenone, one of the most potent antioxidants, this serum helps protect the skin from environmental damage while visibly reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. It also promotes skin elasticity and firmness, resulting in a smoother and more radiant complexion. Suitable for daily use, PREVAGE helps rejuvenate the skin, making it a staple for those seeking to maintain youthful, healthy-looking skin over time.
- Key Peptides: Hexapeptide-11.
Power & Versatility
Peptides are a powerful and versatile ingredient in skincare, offering a range of benefits from boosting collagen production to improving skin hydration and reducing inflammation. Their ability to communicate with skin cells and promote healthy skin functions makes them an essential component of anti-aging and overall skin health strategies. Incorporating peptide-infused products into your skincare routine can help you achieve firmer, smoother, and more youthful-looking skin.
